Ionizer

If you're tired of relaxing in chemicals, and would like to greatly reduce their use and save 80% - 90% on the cost of chemicals, then this is the system for you. Space technology designed to sterilize water on long-duration spacecraft applied to hot tub and spa water purification led to a system that uses two silver-copper-zinc alloy electrodes that generate silver, copper and zinc ions when an electric current passes through them to kill bacteria and algae without chemicals. Mineral purification of water, both drinking AND recreational, is millennia old. Copper (Cu) as ions in swimming pools, spas or any circulating body of water is lethal to bacteria, virus and algae, yet is a safe and healthy alternative to chemicals.

Mineral ion purification of water is easy, effective and in all cases, safer and more forgiving than typical chemical only treatment. It provides softer, gentler water and a more comfortable environment. It's much less expensive than chemical treatment regimens and will also increase the life expectancy of everything around the hot tub, from bathing suits, pumps, filters, heaters and seals. An Ionizer will save you money every year and will give you the following benefits:

• Low initial cost
• Superior water quality
• No more algae problems
• No more red itchy eyes
• No more dried out skin

HUGE 1-1/2 pound electrodes

• Simple to operate
• Simple to install
• Treats up to 1,200 gallons
• Spa surface and equipment will last longer
• Lifetime warranty

How it works.

This technology utilizes minerals to purify water naturally and applies a principle known as electrolysis. The purification process begins by an ultra-low voltage charge running through a sacrificial mineral electrode installed in the return line. This direct current causes the release of copper, silver, and zinc ions into the flow of water which aids in the destruction of algae, bacteria, viruses and mold. To maintain clean, clear water all you need to add is a small amount of sanitizer (chlorine or non chlorine shock) to your hot tub after each use to kill all the organics in your hot tub. So, stop relaxing in harsh expensive chemicals and enjoy the spring like water of an ionized spa with the Sun Ionizer.

What is different about the Sun Ionizer?

The electrodes are made of a custom made copper, silver, and zinc alloy designed for water treatment and are four times larger than most spa ionizers so our electrodes last longer and the replacement electrodes are a better value. Check out our electrode weights and compare. Other ionizers use only copper, or just copper and silver, which is not as effective as our three metal electrodes.

What about passive cartridge ionizers like Nature 2?

You should not use a cartridge ionizer. Besides being very expensive and needing to be replaced every few months, you have very little or no control of the amount of ionization being produced. They are sold without a test kit so you never know what the ion level is and if it is safe to reduce the sanitizer level. The best method of ionizing a hot tub, and the lowest cost over time is with an electronic ionizer.

Beware of copper only ionizers with electrodes and a control box that may look like our Ionizer as they are a cheap copy of our ionizers with outdated electronics. It costs 3 times more for electrodes made with silver in the electrodes. Beware of high percentage silver electrodes. The silver content in ionizer electrodes must be between 1% to 3% to be effective and never higher as silver in high concentrations is very toxic and causes staining problems. Our huge Ionizer electrodes contain 83% copper, 15% zinc and 2% silver.

• Treats up to 1,200 Gallons
• Adjustable Output for Precise Metering of Ion Production.
• IP66 Rated Weatherproof Controller Protects Electronics from Moisture, Corrosion, and Harsh Environments.
• High Efficiency UL, CSA, and CE listed Auto Ranging (120 or 240 volt) Switching Power Supply which provides 5 volts DC to the controller (must be wired to the pump timer so it has power only when the pump is running.)
• Solid State Electronic Circuitry with Automatic Sequential Polarity Switching to keep Electrodes Clean and Even Wearing.
• Light Emitting Diodes Display Power, Cell Power, and Polarity.
• Has Threaded Electrode Cell with a 2" Tee Fitting, Sealed Electrical Connections so there are No Corrosion Problems, and 1-1/2" Reducing Bushings if Needed.
• Lifetime Warranty.

Specifications

• INPUT VOLTAGE: 120 or 240 Volts AC.
• INPUT FREQUENCY: 50 to 60 Hertz
• OUTPUT VOLTAGE: 5 VoltsDC
• OUTPUT CURRENT: 2 Amps. Max
• CONTROLLER: Plastic Weather Proof
• FLOW RATE: 10 To 120 GPM
• CELL: 2" Tee with Extention and 2"Threaded Fitting
• CELL REPLACEMENT: 2" Threaded Male Fitting
• ELECTRODE SIZE AND TYPE: 1-1/2" Half Round x 2-1/2" LONG - COPPER, SILVER, & ZINC
• ELECTRODE WEIGHT: 1.5 LB
• TYPICAL ELECTRODE LIFE: 8 To 20 Years
• CAPACITY: UP TO 1,200 Gallons

1. Turn on the Hot Tub pump.
   
2. Test the Hot Tub water and make sure the water is properly balanced and sanitized. Test the water with the copper test kit to see if there is copper already present. If copper is already present it may be from a copper based algaecide or from a previous pH problem.
   
3. Turn the controller output to MAX. The power light and the cell power light should come on. The cell power light will change color from red to green every few minutes to indicate the cleaning circuit is operating properly. Turning the control down towards MIN decreases the voltage and current to the cell. The Cell Power light will dim slightly as the control is turned down.
   
4. Now you can stop using heavy sanitizer levels! All you need to do is maintain a constant chlorine level as low as 0.2 pp. It has been proven that maintaining 0.2 ppm chlorine and 0.2 ppm copper is more effective sanitation than using just chlorine at 2.0 ppm.
   
5. Test the copper level at least once a week until you have found the proper setting for your spa. Now you should only need to test the copper level once or twice a month because the copper level does not dissipate like sanitizers.
   
6. Do not over ionize your spa. When the level reaches 0.3 ppm turn the control down and adjust as necessary to maintain 0.3 ppm. If the copper level reaches 0.5 ppm turn the ionizer to MIN until the level drops to 0.3 ppm. Maintain the pH at 7.2 to 7.6. Failure to maintain your pH could result in staining if the pH is allowed to drift above 8.0.

1. Before installing the Ionizer the Hot Tub should be clean, pH balanced, sanitized and the filter cleaned.
   
2. Turn off the power to the spa equipment.
   
3. Install the cell after the hot tub heater if possible. The electrode cell must be at the bottom or side so that no air will be trapped in the cell. Cut a section of pipe out where the electrode cell will be installed. Glue the TEE in place using PVC glue making sure it is oriented so no air will be trapped in the cell.
   
4. Mount the Controller on a vertical surface at least 5 ft from the Hot Tub. Fasten with the 4 #6 x 3/4' screws provided, so that the cord to the cell and the power cord will reach. It is best to install the controller where it is protected from the sun and weather.
   
5. Wire the ionizer controller into the same circuit as the low speed of the pump (some spa controllers have a circuit designated for "ozone", which can also be used). If connected to 120 volts the brown wire is the hot wire, the blue wire is the neutral wire, and the green wire is the ground. If connected to 240 volts the brown and blue are the hot wires and the green is the ground. The ionizer controller automatically adjusts to the incoming voltage.

Note: With proper operation and proper water chemistry your ionizer will not stain.