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Power Ionizer Installation Instructions
Electrical Hook-Up
CAUTION:
- Do not connect power to your Power Ionizer until you have followed the System Installation Instructions.
- Alteration of any electrical cord will render the warranty null and void.
- Ensure that you electrical hook-up conforms with all local national electrical codes.
Your 120 volt Power Ion System can be plugged directly into a properly grounded, GFCI protected receptacle with the cord provided.
***PLEASE REFERENCE SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE PROCEEDING!***
If a GFCI protected outlet has been installed, you are now prepared to install your Power Ion System.
WARNING: IF YOUR SYSTEM INCLUDES A GAS HEATER, BE SURE TO INSTALL YOUR POWER ION SYSTEM AT LEAST 18" FROM THE HEATER UNIT.
SYSTEM INSTALLATION
- Turn your filtration system off. Plug both the water suction and return fittings on to prevent any water loss during system installation. Remove a horizontal section of the water return line after the filter, using PVC Glue and Primer install your ionizer. NOTE: Be sure to allow for EASY REPLACEMENT of you Ionizer Chamber. Quick Disconnects should be used on both chamber ends.
- Disconnect the water return hose from your filter unit and remove the connecting threaded fitting from your filter. Apply Teflon tape to the fitting and re-install it into the female pipe thread end of your chamber.
- Apply Teflon tape to both ends of the connector fitting included with your system. Carefully thread it into your filter return port (DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN). Apply the union nut to the tail piece provided and thread the tail piece onto the remaining thread of the connector.
- Be sure you gasket is in position, connect your chamber and re-install your filter hose to the original fitting.
- Open both your suction and return lines to your filter system and inspect for any water leaks. Turn your filter system on and connect power to you Power Ion System.
System Features
There are two(2) indicator lights located on the side panel of the POWER IONIZER
"System Activated" - indicates the Power Ionizer is attached to a live power source, and the electrodes are receiving power.
"Service" - indicates the electrodes are not producing ions and that it is time to replace your Electrode Chamber.
Your "Level Control Knob" will adjust the rate at which copper and silver ions are dispensed into pool water.
Temperature Display
The Temperature Display is provided to allow you to know the temperature of the water with a glance from a distance. This will be accurate (within 4 degrees) provided your filtration system is operating at the time.
After installation, if your Power Ionizer faces the wrong direction to see the display, it can be reversed by simply removing the four (4) mounting screws that secure the Transformer Module to the Electrode Chamber and turning it around. If you do this, just be careful not to damage the temperature sensor cable when you re-attach the Chamber to the Module.
Diagrams
Getting Started
Note: In order to avoid immediate staining, make sure any Marcite Finish pools cure at least 90 days before your Power Ionizer System is used.
Water Management:
- If your water contains iron, it must be removed before you start your Ionizer. This can be accomplished by adding a metal remover. It should be circulated in the water for approximately 48 hours. Your filter system should then be cleaned or backwashed. Turn your Power Ion System "Off" until the iron is removed from your water.
- Please test and balance the levels of your water.
| Ideal Range | |
| pH | 7.2-7.8 |
| Total Alkalinity | 80-140 ppm |
| Calcium Hardness | 200-350 ppm |
| Total Dissolved Solids | 1,000-2,000 ppm |
Note: Balance your calcium hardness first, if necessary. Then the Total alkalinity should be adjusted before adjusting the pH. *More details on the chemicals required to adjust your levels will be found in the Water Management and Troubleshooting Pamphlet provided.
Note: Stabilizer is not needed and may, at high levels, cause purple stain with high levels of copper in the water.
Note: Failure to maintain adequate water balances could result in copper precipitating from the water and the possibility of staining.
If the Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) in the water is less than 1,000 ppm, it may be difficult to build up a copper residual. The TDS can be raised by adding sodium chloride (pure salt) or water softener salt to the water. One pound (1 lb.) of sodium chloride will raise the TDS by 12 ppm in 10,000 gallons of water. * Please note, fresh city has a typical TDS level of 400-800 ppm, while some well water with high calcium levels could run well over 1,200 ppm.
- You must maintain a chlorine residual of 1.0 to 3.0 ppm in your water for 2 to 3 days (the time generally required to reach the adequate ion residual level). It is only necessary to maintain a chlorine residual until your ion residual reaches 0.3 to 0.5 ppm.
- Your Filtration System should be in operation through the water balancing process. The self-contained flow switch, on your Power Ion System will activate the unit automatically once it has power and water flow is achieved. At this point in time, adjust your Poser Ion Level Control Knob to high (the "System Activated" light signifies operation). We recommend continuous water circulation or filter operation to speed the residual building process.
Note: It is important to check your copper level daily. You may be quite surprised to find that it may only take a few days to build the residual with ideal conditions.
- Check the copper residual daily until it has reached between 0.3 -0.5 ppm. this should take approximately 2-3 days. Once the recommended copper residual has been reached, you will need to carefully monitor the level setting on the Power Ionizer. Set your daily pump run time to the number of hours as recommended by your dealer. Continue to check you copper level every second day. If it continues to rise, turn the Power Ion Level control Knob down. If it starts to drop below 0.3, turn the Power Ion Control Know up. Once your copper residual has stabilized between 0.3 -0.5 ppm, you can revert to testing your water on a weekly basis. It is no longer necessary to maintain a chlorine residual.
Note: Adjustment to your Power Ion Level Control Knob will increase or decrease the residual level in conjunction with the length of your filtration cycle. For a longer filtration cycle, lower your Ion Level Control Knob. For a shorter cycle, turn up your Power Ion Level control Knob.
Water Testing and Oxidizing
- Your Power Ion System is introducing copper and silver into your water which will kill bacteria, viruses, algae, etc. However, it cannot remove the dead organisms and bather wastes which accumulate in the pool water. This is done by oxidizing or shocking on a weekly basis. Your water balance is also very important and these parameters should also be checked and adjusted, if required, on a weekly basis. Be sure that your pump is still going to run for a few hours after you balance and oxidize your water.
- As previously mentioned, shock or oxidize your water weekly. a maintenance calendar has been included to reference for your convenience. Note: Under normal conditions, oxidizing is required once a week. However, with heavy use and if the temperature becomes very hot or if you get a severe rain storm, you may have to oxidize more frequently. The first signs of a need to oxidize are the water losing its sparkle and/or an oily film developing on the surface of the water.
Note: If the copper residual gets excessively high, turn the Power Ion Level Control Knob setting on your Power Ion System to "Off" immediately. Ensure that the water balance parameters are in check and allow the copper residual to come down on its own.
Note: The electrode bars are eroding while the Power Ionizer is used. Once you achieve the desired copper level and control setting, over time you will need to increase that setting slightly to maintain that same copper level. Eventually you will have to set the control at "Maximum" and, once the bars have eroded to the point that they are no longer effective, your "Service" indicator will come on. At that point, you will have to change your Power Ionizer Chamber.
