Hot Tub & Spa
Water Care & Troubleshooting

Hopefully we're not the first to tell you that owning a spa, just like a car or beautiful garden requires periodic maintenance and upkeep. While there's lots of products to greatly help reduce the amount of chemical use and maintenance time, NOTHING will make your spa totally maintenance and chemical free. Without a doubt, the most important aspect of spa care is the chemical balance of the water. You might even say that adjusting the chemical balance of your spa water is like feeding it. Feed your spa right and it will be healthy, feed it wrong and it'll get sick. And you know what doctor bills are like.

The important to remember is  that a spa is very different from a swimming pool   (four people in a spa is the equivalent to having 300 people in an average size pool). With the combination of high temperatures and ratio of people to water, problems can occur. Residual soaps, deodorants, perfumes and other cosmetics, natural body oils and perspiration are released into the spa water which can cause other organic contaminates. For this reason you should use products that are especially formulated for spa and hot tub use.

Spa water testing is much easier and painless than you may imagine. What's more, regularly spa water testing and adjusting will increase the life of your spa and it's equipment.

Liquid Test Kits

• Test-kit reagents deteriorate over time and will eventually give you false results. Always check the expiration dates and follow the manufacturer's instructions for usage and storage.

• It's very important to clean your test kit after each use. Any residual chemicals can falsify future tests.

• Circulate the water before testing and take the water sample from at least 12 inches below the surface.

• Read your results immediately using a brightly lighted background, preferably white.

• Do not use your fingers in place of a test vial cap because the oils from your skin can skew your results.

Test Strips

• Test strips deteriorate over time and will eventually give you false results. Always check the expiration dates and follow the manufacturer's instructions for usage and storage.

• Circulate the water before testing and take the water sample from at least 12 inches below the surface.

• Do not put your fingers inside the container to remove strips (oils from your skin can contaminate the remaining test strips).

• Keep container tightly closed. Allowing moisture into the container can ruin the test strips.

TOTAL ALKALINITY

Total alkalinity the measure of all the alkaline material in the water, or it's ability to neutralize acid (or the water's buffering capacity). It is really an indicator of the ability of the water to resist changes in pH. Always test for total alkalinity (TA) first, using test strips or kit. The acceptable range is 60-180 PPM. If below 60 PPM, add Spa Up until a reading of about 100-120 PPM is reached. If above 180, add Spa Down until a reading of about 120-140 PPM is attained.

High total alkalinity

Low total alkalinity

• Hard to change pH
• Scale formation
• Cloudy water
• Skin and eye irritation
• Poor sanitizer efficiency

• Rapid changes in pH or "pH bounce"
• Corroded metals/equipment
• Skin and eye irritation

pH

pH indicates how acidic or alkaline your spa water is. pH is measured on a 14 point scale, with 7-8 being neutral for bathers. A pH reading below 7 would be acidic and one above 8 would be alkaline. The acceptable range is 7.2 to 7.8 . If below 7.2, add Soda Ash until a reading of about 7.4 is reached. Spa Up may also be used, but keep in mind that Spa Up will also raise the total alkalinity, so if the TA is already high, you must use Soda Ash. If the pH is above 7.8, add Spa Down until a reading of about 7.6 is reached.

Once pH adjustments have been made, you can lock pH into balance by adding pH Balance and there should be no need for further adjustments for at least 3 months! Note: pH holding products are not recommended in areas with high water hardness (above 500 PPM).

High pH

Low pH

• Poor sanitizer efficiency
• Cloudy water
• Frequent filter cleaning
• Scale formation
• Skin and eye irritation

• Poor sanitizer efficiency
• Corroded metals/equipment
• Skin and eye irritation
• Destruction of total alkalinity

CALCIUM HARDNESS

Water hardness is a concentration of the calcium and magnesium in your spa water. The ideal calcium hardness level for hot tubs and spas is 200-400 PPM. If your level is below about 150 PPM, some erosion of equipment parts can occur. Low hardness can be corrected with Calcium Booster (not recommended if you are using pH Balance or other pH holding products).

High Hardness

Low Hardness

• Cloudy water
• Scale formation
• Skin and eye irritation
• Foamy water

• Corroded metals/equipment
• Cloudy water
• Foamy water

DISSOLVED SOLIDS

Total dissolved solids or TDS is absolutely everything dissolved in your spa water, from metals to chlorine to alkalinity to sulfates and salts. The acceptable range of TDS in spas is 1,500 ppm above your start-up TDS. If you have a problem with TDS, spa water may taste salty or it may have a tint to it, although there isn't any clouding. You might also get false test readings, among other things.

SANITIZE

A disinfectant level of 3-5 parts per million (PPM) bromine or chlorine is necessary to continuously kill bacteria. Bromine, unlike chlorine, is effective even after disinfecting. It has a less offensive odor and causes less irritation than chlorine. It's more pH stable, and easier to maintain in the proper level by using tablets in a convenient floating dispenser. However, being more stable than chlorine it can be more difficult to remove the odor from your skin. Even if your spa is equipped with an ozonator, you should still use a sanitizer and shock treatment.

SANITIZER NOTES
Chlorine and Bromine are in the chemical family known as Halogens. They are powerful oxidizers, which means they literally burn up organic matter in the water.  Outside of water they need to be handled with care.  Bromine and chlorine should never be stored where they may come in contact with each other as a chemical reaction can occur which could cause a fire.  They should never be mixed together in a dry container. Bromine and chlorine should never be switched in the same feeder. Even though empty, these feeders have residue which could react. When handling chemicals they shouldn't come in contact with any fertilizers, petroleum products or anything organic including Cigarette ashes.  All chemicals should be stored  in an area where there are no metals present because the gases escaping will attack these metals.  Even though it seems convenient, this includes the underside cabinet on a portable spa. Extensive damage can occur to the equipment and spa electronics.

SHOCK

Shock treatment is best accomplished by the addition of an oxidizer to the water to break down organic contaminates. These contaminants include dirt, soap films, oils and perspiration, along with ammonia and nitrates (bather by-products). Free chlorine will readily combine with these chemicals producing compounds known as  chloramines (smells strongly like chlorine, but has no 'killing' effect). Filters do not always trap these and other very small particles. If they are allowed to remain in the water, they can provide a food source for bacteria and algae. Bromine will also combine to form bromamines, but bromamines retain their sanitizing ability. Shocking rearranges the chemical structure to free up the chlorine or bromine to its most active state for sanitizing.  Chlorine based shocks also kill off any organic matter (bacteria) that may have gotten a 'foothold' and become resistant to normal amounts of sanitizers.

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