WEEKEND HANDYMAN
hosted by Paul Ryan

Hot Tub - Episode WKH-413

It's hot!

We could all use a little more relaxation in our lives, and what better way than with a hot tub? The original hot tub was a Japanese invention, made from slats like a wine cask and heated by a wood stove. You can still get that traditional look and feel, but with the modern conveniences of gas heat and contemporary water purification systems. In just one weekend, host Paul Ryan will show how to pick a location, build, fill and maintain a barrel shaped wooden hot tub that can be enjoyed every day of the year.

After choosing the round cedar hot tub, host Paul Ryan chooses a location for it adjacent to the deck of the house. A pre-poured, solid concrete pad will ensure the structural stability of the hot tub.

Time: 16 hours over two days.
Difficulty Rating: This project rates a 3 out of 5 on the Weekend Handyman difficulty scale.

Materials:

• Hot tub kit
• Hole saw
• Impact wrench
• Plumber's glue
• Silicone

Base Installation

1. Begin by finding a location to place the hot tub. Have a concrete base for the hot tub poured on the site (figure A).

2. Look over all of the pieces of the hot tub kit (figure B).

3. Start by laying out the treated lumber (figure C). You will build the unit on an elevated platform (figure D).

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

4. During the assembly of the hot tub, it’s important to keep the wood dry. If it gets wet during construction, swelling will occur and it may not seal properly.

5. Before sliding the two base pieces together, drill a couple of outlet holes that will recirculate the water. Come out about 5" from the edge so the holes will be covered by the bench and make them 36" on center (figure E). When using a hole saw, only cut halfway through on the front. Then, cut on the back so that you do not blow out the hole and splinter the edges (figure F).

Figure D

Figure E

Figure F

6. Install the suction fittings in the base. Apply a bead of silicone to the hull fitting (figure G). Then, hand tighten it, so it is snug, but not over tightened (figure H).

7. Plumb the two suction fittings together. Connect them together with PVC pipe and PVC glue (figure I).

Figure G

Figure H

Figure I

Installing Hot Tub Sides

1. Start assembling the beveled staves. They are beveled at a 4-1/2 degree bevel (figure A) and they have a tongue and groove edge (figure B).

2. Loosely set the boards on the pre-marked base, and set them all the way around (figure C).

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

3. Make sure they line up and then pound them into place.

4. Use the hammer supplied with the kit so you don’t mar the wood.

5. When you get to the last board, slide it down from the top. This is the only way to get it in.

6. Next, using the bands supplied with the kit, bring them one by one, from top to bottom, around the hot tub (figure D). You want them to be even with the bottom of the base and then start tightening. The bottom band needs to be centered on the bottom base (figure E).

7. Using an impact wrench or ratchet, tighten the nuts on the band (figure F).

Figure D

Figure E

Figure F

8. Once the first band is in place, put temporary blocks on the seam of the base (figure G). This will keep the seam from buckling as you tighten the tub.

9. Tightening the bands is a two person job. While one person tightens the band, the other should strike it with a soft face mallet (figure H). Keep tightening the band until you meet a lot of resistance.

10. When installing the bands, make sure that the lugs are staggered on different boards. You don’t want all the pressure points concentrated on one board (figure I).

Figure G

Figure H

Figure I

11. Next, install the jets by placing them 23 inches from the bottom. That will place it about 6-1/2" up from the bench.

12. After marking the jet locations, use a 2-1/2" hole saw to cut through the sides (figure J).

13. Place a generous bead of silicone sealant on the end of the body jet fitting and screw it to the gasket on the inside of the tub (figure K).

14. Install the bench by adding the support, then the benches and provided spline material to attach the bench pieces together (figure L).

Figure J

Figure K

Figure L

During the second day, Paul installs and secures the jets. He installs a bench in the unit. After the hot tub is fully assembled, he is ready to install the equipment to run it.

Plumbing Installation

1. Install the heater, pump and filter. Begin by plumbing the components together and attach them to the hot tub. Make sure that they are more than five feet away from the tub. Line them up in a straight line (figure A).

2. For the plumbing, use a series of PVC elbows and PVC pipes (figure B).

3. Cut the pipe and dryfit, just in case you need to move elements.

4. When plumbing the jets, you will need to use a flexible piece of PVC (figure C). Dry fit all of the plumbing pieces.

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

Finally, Paul installs all the extras like a 10 inch shelf that attaches to the top of the hot tub to hold drinks and towels.

Completion of Tub

1. Dryfit the freeze control so it joins the outlet pipe to the inlet that goes into the pump (figure A).

2. Then, the ionizer goes in the middle of the hot tub outlet pipe.

3. With the dryfit complete, you can continue by gluing all of the PVC together (figure B).

4. It is imperative to use the primer on the flexible PVC pipe (figure C), or it won’t bond properly and you’ll have leaks. It’s okay to skip it on the rigid pipe, but not flexible.

5. Cap off the last jet.

6. Install air dials for the jets with PVC glue (figure D).

7. Finally, fill the tub with a garden hose. Once all the electrical connections are made, it should take about six hours to heat.

Figure A

Figure B

Figure C

Figure D